About face shapes

Below is a list of face shapes with a guide to the positive and negative qualities when looking for a wig style.

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Face shape round

Round face shapes

Positive styles

Styles which add height and are long and narrow through the sides.

Negative styles

Styles which accentuate the roundness of the face, such as tight perms, one length cuts and round shapes.

Face shape square

Square face shapes

Positive styles

Round shapes which soften the angular lines of the face.

Negative styles

Square cut bobs, geometric or angular shapes.

Face shape oblong

Oblong face shapes

Positive styles

Asymmetrical shapes which widen the face and add interest.

Negative styles

Styles which are short at the sides and nape and are swept upwards to create height.

Face shape heart

Heart face shapes

Positive styles

Styles which are full at the bottom to widen the chin and narrow through the top.

Negative styles

Styles which are high and wide through the cheek-bone area, as these emphasise the narrow chin.

Face shape triangle

Triangular face shapes

Positive styles

Shapes which are wide and full through the top and narrower through the sides; longer hair will detract from any angular jawline.

Negative styles

Styles which are cut narrow through the top or very short styles, as these both emphasise the wide jawline.

Face shape diamond

Diamond face shapes

Positive styles

Round shapes which soften the angular lines of the face, which are narrow through the sides and mid-chin length to widen the chin.

Negative styles

Styles which are high, short or full at the sides, as these emphasise the narrow chin and wide cheek-bones.

Face shape oval

Oval face shapes

Positive styles

you could go for a short fringe or one that's long and blunt. For fine hair, a long wispy fringe is for you.

Negative styles

Covering up your "perfect" features with heavy bangs, or too forward-directed styles. In wearing your hair style on your face, you'll lose your face shape behind the hair. It may appear to add weight to your face.

Face shape pear

Pear face shapes

Positive styles

The right bangs can be a tool for pears to help widen the top half of their faces.

Negative styles

Curly hair.

Face shape Rectangular

Rectangular face shapes

Positive styles

Fringes will cover up a the forehead which will help to shorten the face. Messy hairstyles or those beach waves looks will save you time.

Negative styles

To much hair length will make your face will appear longer. To little hair length will also make your face appear longer. Too much volume at the top of your head will lengthen your face.

Head shape

Although our heads all consist of the same bones and conform to a recognisable ‘skull’ shape, there will be differences of form in some clients to be noted by the stylist. Feel the client’s head with your hands. Are there any protrusions? Notable differences in head shape can be felt in the parietal and occipital areas. Some heads are either flatter or rounder here, and you may have to make adjustments in the style so the hair lies as you intend it to. You may also discover warts, cysts or scarring which were not evident from just combing the hair.

Head shapes - Head image

Facial features

Facial features include the eyes, nose and mouth. Styles can be designed which detract from or emphasise facial features. An example of this is when a large prominent nose may be detracted from by dressing the front hair slightly at an angle, rather than symmetrically. Straight fringes will draw attention to wrinkled eyes whereas they will be softened by dressing the hair angled away from the face. A prominent profile will be accentuated by a style swept backwards off the face, so it is better to have the hair softly framing the face.

The neck

A long ‘swan’ neck will be accentuated if the hair is cut short or upswept at the nape, so the hair should be kept long to disguise the neck. Similarly, a short neck will be lengthened by cutting the hair short in the nape.

The ears

Protruding ears can be disguised by dressing the hair over them. Often, a person’s ears are not evenly balanced so that one ear may appear to protrude more than the other or be positioned slightly lower. If there is a very obvious difference, you may need to leave the hair slightly longer on one side than the other to rectify the imbalance or to allow for more protrusion on one side.

Body shape

Just as there is an ideal face shape there is also an ideal in body proportions. The height of a person should be seven or eight times the size of the head. If someone is short the hairstyle should be designed to give them an illusion of extra height, while the opposite would be true for someone who is tall. The hairstyle should balance and harmonise with the height and build of the client. If the head of the client looks small, design a style to make it look bigger, while if it looks large design one to make it look smaller. Remember to take a look at clients while they are walking to gauge their exact height and the way they ‘carry’ themselves. There are no ‘hard and fast’ set rules about designing a style to suit body shape as face shape and facial features are so important in reaching correct conclusions.

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